from 1822
Ireland '23 - Day 14 - Boyne Valley - Tara & Nowth/Newgrange
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Bru na Boine
On Thursday after breakfast, four of us checked out of Camden Court & took a cab to Dublin airport, where we crammed our stuff into a modest-sized rental car, such that driver Roger had no rear view other than side mirrors.
Once we escaped the airport freeway complex, we drove into the town of Swords, for coffee & to get our bearings. The coffee was great & Mary synched her phone w/the car, which worked well for the rest of our 3 day driving trip.
I enjoyed being co-pilot to Roger on the drive there, most out in the country. The Hill of Tara is historical & mysterious, the initial mystery being the complete lack of signage, or references to Tara, on the entire drive, like it doesn't exist.
The entrance to Tara is through an old churchyard.
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entrance |
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fall light | ||
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Tara mounds in the distance |
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from 1822 |
The Hill of Tara is an ancient ceremonial and burial site for former rulers, the Kings of early Ireland, a warring bunch.
Aerial photography and GPR (ground penetrating radar) has identified 60 burial mounds, the most important being The Mound of the Hostages, which according to archeologists, contains the cremated remains of generations of high-status individuals, from 5,000 years ago, when the Neolithic era began. Then by the 800s it was an important Celtic stronghold.
Game of Thrones, anyone ? ....this is where it really happened, minus TV fantasy elements.
Tara is an impressive hill, with 360 degree views for miles. On a clear day the North Sea can be seen, and to the west lies the Boyne River watershed, full of small Neolithic or Celtic settlements.
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mound of the hostages |
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mounded earth | |
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view to the north (a bit hazy) |
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church ruin, a mile to the south |
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Stone of Destiny |
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Mary & Doris |
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exiting the place |
The combined Nowth/Newgrange site is a 45 minute drive east from Tara, both are on, or near, River Boyne.
When we arrived at the modern & impressive Nowth/Newgrange visitor center, we were early & enjoyed soup or a scone (or both) at the amazing cafe, plus coffee or tea. Outside was a great bridge over the river.
We were on time for the guided tour with a shuttle taking about 15 tourists to each site.
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Mary & Roger at the visitor center |
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River Boyne |
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looking downstream, see note | |
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a wool cap is comfortable in this weather |
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Neolithic burial mounds at Nowth |
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construction details | |
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stairway to the top of Nowth |
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Newgrange is a 5,000 year old passage tomb |
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the mound front wall | |
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spiral patterns |
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Neolithic construction w/ some restoration | |||
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entrance to passage tomb |
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group photo |
note - a guy who worked at the Newgrange site said to me (on the bridge) that a lot of rain in the last two weeks brought the river up & out of its banks, filling floodplain areas, as the photo shows.
It reminded me of a pothole on highway 72, near Killorglin, eight days ago, due to the same storms.
Newgrange -The docent took us to the center of the Newgrange Monument, a 100 ft. long passage, and I had to duck repeatedly to avoid hitting my head on huge stone slabs. It was also quite narrow in a few places. The size of the boulders and exquisite placement was beyond belief.
Once 15 of us were in the small central chamber, the Docent turned all lights off for a few minutes, and then the group saw a representation of how the first rays of the rising sun might look, a finger of intense light, illuminating the center of the chamber, on the winter solstice day (Dec. 21), for only a few minutes, once a year.
Later we drove NE for an hour to the tiny town of Carlingford, in a mountainous coastal setting. We checked into the comfortable Mourneview B&B, and once freshened up, drove into town for dinner at the Carlingford Arms.
A charming woman from Ghana in colorful dress served us and you could see she was well-liked, and drinks & food were flowing. An old Irishman at the counter, with a money box, was using a pencil stub to add up how much patrons owed & they expected cash. It was a vintage modern Ireland....
Across the cobblestone street (no cars are allowed in town) was a Pub with live music. The small-town-ness was refreshing; people wanted songs to sing or clap along with. We were up late that night, like 11 pm.
Go to next page - Carlingford
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Postscript - back to antiquity -
Hill of Tara - there's no visitor center (so no kitchen magnets or t-shirts), no historical displays, or handouts, so you're on your own here.....go forth & wander around, like I did.
It is an intriguing site; the view is vast & inspires wonder....you can let your mind wander, imagining the past. Archeologists say this is one of the most important ancient sites in Ireland. (All Tara info is from Wikipedia.)
Newgrange - To think that a large group of organized people who lived 5,000 years ago constructed this immense burial monument and oriented its one & only entrance to align perfectly with a single day's sunrise, in the solar year, the main effect lasting only a few moments, is astounding.
Yet what a moment it is ! ....the transition from the old year to the new, and a profound symbol of rebirth, brought about the cosmos, with amazing precision !
The Neolithic people were identical to us moderns in every way. They were the first humans to collectively grow crops & raise animal herds, and the winter solstice must have provided assurance that winter will indeed end, and planting season will indeed come, no matter how bad the present winter is.
Go to next page - Carlingford